Published in Texas Gardening

Time For Center Pivot Inspections And Maintenance-fbSource: AgriLife Today

Spring planting is just around the corner, so for producers with irrigation systems, now

Posted by Deryn Davidson, Boulder County Extension Trees provide so much in our landscapes from shade, to carbon sequestration, to beauty and beyond.So why would anyone remove a tree?Typically if they are dead, dying, have become a hazard for some reason or are simply in the "wrong"place, they are candidates for removal.  Next door to where I live, we had one such tree.A huge, beautiful
National Invasive Species Awareness Week kicked off on Feb. 25 (Monday) and runs through March 3 (Sunday).
Suicide rates among farmers in India remain high, accounting for more than 12,500 deaths in the country in
There are safe and effective ways to use herbicides to manage forests and fend off invasive species.
Published in Illinois Gardening

Do not try to grow grass under trees or in shady areas of your landscape.

Generally, lawns are seeded with a mix of Kentucky blue grass, fine fescue and rye grass.Each type contributes to the whole of the lawn, but none of them will grow well in full shade.

Instead, consider growing groundcover or making a mulch ring.Shade-loving sprawlers like vinca, pachysandra, sweet woodruff and ajuga can be bought in flats of 24 or 36 and spaced 6-12" apart.A mulch ring around the base of a tree helps retain moisture, limit soil erosion, improves aesthetics, and can even prevent lawn mower damage.Never spread mulch more than 4" thick—no mulch volcanos hugging your tree's trunk!

Research before you plant.

A masterful gardener chooses the right plant for the right place.Ask yourself a few questions before walking into a greenhouse or nursery:What kind of soil do I have?What is the sun exposure?Does the soil have good drainage?How much area do I want to cover?Then follow two simple landscape rules:plant in groups, or drifts, of three or more, and choose plants with nice foliage.Most flowering perennials have short blooming periods.

Avoid permanent mulch like landscaping fabric and rocks.

These may be efficient at reducing weeds for the first few years, but eventually soil and debris will accumulate and landscape fabric will have to be pulled up, and rock will have to be dug out to remove the weeds.

Plant landscape trees properly.

The most common and costly mistake in planting trees is planting too deep.You may even find that a young nursery tree is planted too deep in the pot that you bought it in.When transplanting, find the place where the roots start to spread out from the trunk, and place it at soil level.

Preparing your soil.

It is easy to add some organic matter like compost to give the roots a chance to spread and take hold.

Checking the roots when buying plants.

If the roots are white and have not a fully formed root ball, then the plant may not be healthy.Also check for thick, encircling roots.This plant has overgrown its container;tree roots can girdle the tree.

Avoid invasive plants.

Many plants can have invasive qualities and will be difficult to deal with in about two to three years.If you want to be cautious with your sweat investment, turn down that free plant from the neighbor, it is probably invasive.

Get a soil test!

Adding fertilizer to your lawn or garden without knowing your soil's current makeup is like taking a random product off the shelf at the drugstore for a headache.It's not likely to work the way you want it to, and it could even be dangerous.Don't spread, spray, or pour another dollar on your lawn without giving your soil a checkup!

Feb 22, 2019

"The Massachusetts Department of Agricultural Resources (MDAR) today announced that a single dead specimen of spotted lanternfly, an invasive pest, was reported and confirmed at a private residence in Boston.

Published in Indiana Gardening
When a team of graduate students from Purdue University’s Department of Food Science decided to take on a
Published in Missouri Gardening

Media contact:
Linda Geist
Writer
University of Missouri Extension
Phone: 573-882-9185
E-Mail: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Story source: Kaitlyn Bissonnette, 573-882-3001

COLUMBIA, Mo. – Test for soybean cyst nematode (SCN) in the spring before planting, says University of Missouri Extension plant pathologist Kaitlyn Bissonnette.

Data from MU researchers shows SCN field populations are becoming more virulent on commercial soybean cultivars, Bissonnette says.

SCN quickly began spreading in Missouri in the 1970s and gained a strong foothold in most of the state’s soybean-growing counties by the 1990s. Easily transported by nature, cysts and eggs can be spread within a field or to new fields by soil, equipment, water or wind. Today it is the No. 1 soybean disease in the U.S. and Canada.

Yields drop by as much as 14 bushels per acre in infected fields when SCN reproduction is high, according to the SCN Coalition, a public-private partnership of researchers, extension specialists and industry representatives. Populations can increase exponentially, with 100 females capable of producing 39,062 eggs after four generations in one growing season, assuming each female produces 250 eggs, only half become female and only 1 percent of eggs will survive.

SCN is difficult to detect without testing because damage occurs to the root system before it can be seen. Symptoms include stunted plants, yellowing and yield loss. Yield loss can occur even when there are no visual symptoms, Bissonnette says.

Nematodes are becoming increasingly resistant to PI 88788, the genetic source of SCN resistance used in about 95 percent of all SCN-resistant soybean varieties.

Bissonnette suggests two ways to test for SCN: Dig a month-old soybean plant, gently shake the soil from the roots and look for white females, or collect soil samples for testing.

Collect 15-20 core samples for every 20 acres. Cores should be 6-8 inches deep and an inch in diameter. Collect in a zigzag pattern and divide each field into management zones. Include high-risk areas such as the field entry, flooded areas, low spots and historically low-yielding areas.

For each collection zone, mix the core samples together. Moisture content is important. “It’s difficult to get an egg count out of concrete or sludge,” Bissonnette says. Ideally, cores will stay intact during collection, but will easily fall apart upon mixing. When in doubt, err on the side of dry.

Put samples in a bag and label. If possible, mark down the GPS coordinates of the field where samples were collected. Send to a testing facility.

Know your baseline SCN egg count and test every three to five years, Bissonnette says. Comparing SCN egg counts tells you if your management plan is working long-term.

Work with crop advisers and extension agronomists in your area to develop a management plan.

Bissonnette recommends: 1. Test fields to know SCN egg count, 2. rotate to resistant varieties, 3. rotate to non-host crops, and 4. consider using a nematode-protectant seed treatment.

For more information on SCN, visit www.TheSCNCoalition.com.

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